"In the brackish marshes of the American Northeast grows Althaea officinalis, the marsh mallow plant, whose tough, tan-white roots can be boiled and used in place of egg whites in a meringue, or gelatin in homemade marshmallows. The Ancient Egyptians once harnessed the plant's thickening powers, mixing its sap with honey and nuts for a confection considered a candy for the gods."
"In 1917, the Angelus Marshmallow company hired Janet McKenzie Hill, a prolific cookbook author, food scientist and the founder of The Boston Cooking School Magazine, to create recipes that used its marshmallows. One of those inventions was the casserole we know today: mashed DayGlo-orange sweet potatoes topped with bloomed and burnished snowy marshmallows. This year, I wanted to create a decidedly savory version that made a case for marshmallows' rightful place on top of the casserole"
The marsh mallow plant, Althaea officinalis, grows in brackish Northeastern marshes and provides roots that thicken confections and substitute for egg whites or gelatin. Ancient Egyptians mixed the plant's sap with honey and nuts to make a revered candy. Nineteenth-century European confectioners replaced the sap with gelatin and developed mass-produced marshmallows. Marshmallows became a common grocery item used to top sweet potato casseroles at Thanksgiving. In 1917, Angelus Marshmallow commissioned recipes that produced the iconic marshmallow-topped sweet potato casserole. A savory reinterpretation can justify marshmallows alongside traditional Thanksgiving sides. Bake potatoes unwrapped to avoid sogginess and encourage caramelization.
Read at cooking.nytimes.com
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