"Jonathan Anderson truly hit his stride with his debut-and first-ever-haute couture collection for Dior yesterday, transforming the runway into a garden in full bloom. Suspended flowers hung from the ceiling as if nature were staging a quiet coup, reclaiming the space. Flowers are a house code, but Anderson skewed the idea just enough: this wasn't pretty-pretty. It was floral with an edge-challenging in places, exploratory in others-and felt very much like a couture laboratory in motion."
"After a series of outings that tested traditionalists-most notably last week's foppish menswear presentation, an ode to Paul Poiret and a clear tribute to the late Pam Hogg-everything cohered here. Anderson folded the voluptuousness of blooms, the New Look, and silhouettes associated with predecessors like John Galliano into something less nostalgic and more investigative, pushing form as much as celebrating it."
"Couture jewelry drew inspiration from 18th-century oval miniatures by Rosalba Carriera, the Italian Rococo painter celebrated for her ivory portraits, and from British miniature master John Smart. From that jumping-off point came pearl-framed brooches, bows, flowers that uncannily resembled vintage headphones, and, as the house notes describe, "a large selection of chunky cuffs and rings crafted from ornamental stones and meteorite fragments," evoking nature in all its guises-earthbound and extra-terrestrial alike."
Jonathan Anderson's debut haute couture for Dior transformed the runway into a garden of suspended flowers that reclaimed the space. The collection treated floral motifs with an edge, feeling exploratory and laboratory-like rather than purely decorative. Anderson integrated voluptuous blooms, New Look references, and silhouettes associated with predecessors into inventive, less nostalgic shapes that pushed form. Sculptural influence came from ceramicist Magdalene Odundo and extended into accessories. Couture jewelry referenced 18th-century miniatures by Rosalba Carriera and John Smart, producing pearl-framed brooches, bows, and chunky cuffs and rings made from ornamental stones and meteorite fragments. The collection will be on view at the Musée Rodin.
Read at Artnet News
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