When I first visited muscadet country in the early 2000s, things were looking bleak for producers of the once all-conquering local seafood-friendly dry white. The shining exception on that trip was Guy Bossard, the owner of a small biodynamically farmed domaine called Domaine de l'Ecu.
... his thrilling dry white wines were every bit as eloquent. As resonant, precise and varied as the best white burgundy, and at a fraction of the price, they were a challenge to all my preconceived ideas about muscadet.
Bossard, who died last year, lived long enough to see the local scene and the rest of the world catch up with his vision of muscadet, the best examples of which are now established as the thinking sommelier's chablis.
The Loire is home to creative producers of all philosophical and vinicultural stripes, making a greater range of styles than any other wine region in France, driven by natural winemakers and a variety of vineyard locations.
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