If you taste wines such as soave and pinot grigio on their own, you might think they're a bit bland and boring, but sip a glass with a plate of antipasti or spaghetti carbonara, say, and they spring into life.
Italians by and large don't want wines with overt fruit flavours, too much oak or overly high levels of alcohol, because they overwhelm their fundamentally simple food, which tends to respect both the raw ingredient and the season in which you're serving it.
The other virtue of Italian whites is that they are relatively inexpensive. The regular price of the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi in today's pick, for instance, is only 7.25 in store at the Co-op (and a little more online).
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