Wine prices can sometimes be baffling. You can never be quite sure where you stand. I write this having just read a piece on 2019 Bordeaux that deems some bottles priced between 40 and 50 to be bargains, another that trumpets the cheapest price on the market for a 173.50 bottle of Dom Perignon, and another that says I need never pay more than 20 for the best quality wine around. They can't all be right, can they?
But in truth, and even allowing for a generous margin for the producer, it's hard to make them come to a bottle costing much far north of 25. Certainly, it's possible to find a wine that has taken all those qualitative steps for that price or, in certain unfashionable places, with cheaper land and labour costs, for less. The complicating, confounding element is that no matter how meticulous your methods and how lavish your spending on them, the single most important factor in lifting a wine from good to great is
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