I do plenty of that myself, not least when it comes to the UK's biggest source of wine, Australia, where it's easy to be dazzled by the emergence and increased mastery of what the Australians themselves call alternative varieties, from the Greek assyrtiko and southern Italian fiano to Iberians such as tourgia nacional and tempranillo.
...more often than not, my favourite Australian red wines are made from the big-name grapes with which the country first rose to prominence, with shiraz of which The Co-op's recent addition is a particularly succulent and savoury example still first among equals.
Increasingly, however, shiraz is being upstaged by another long-established Australian import from southern France with which it is often blended but which has sometimes struggled for attention: grenache...
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