"Servers hoist table-size black-lacquered trays from the open kitchen's counter, hurtling them through the dining room toward their destinations. There is usually a moment of hovering when they arrive, as diners scurry to push aside glasses and silverware to make space. Glanced from above, the collection of bowls and ramekins and their contents resembles an earth-toned Kandinsky: circles within circles, patterns overlapping patterns."
"Bread for scooping dips in most L.A. restaurants comes in one of two forms: the flat, packaged kind, reheated perhaps but still nearly as appealing as paperboard, or as spheres pulled fresh from the oven, arriving so hot they steam and deflate as you rip into them. Happily, this kitchen team bakes its own rounds of pita (also known as khubz in transliterated Arabic)."
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