When it comes to birthdays, anniversaries and other big occasions, diners are reluctant to leave things to chance. If you are going to dip into your cash reserves for a meal, it better deliver. When Nosh Awards voters picked their favorite restaurant in the East Bay for special occasions, Chez Panisse, the Bay Area's slow food flag bearer, came out on top for the second year in a row.
I am not here to critique the essentials of fast food (I love it). If you want someone who will come over like the critic in Ratatouille, you're just going to have to go and rewatch Ratatouille. I am merely here to eat six festive specials, and ask myself: do I feel Christmassy, punk? Impressive' Wagamama chicken cranberry katsu curry. Photograph: Wagamama
Waiters are dressed like charros, and the decor made me think it was designed to attract Americans eager to relive their Mexican beach vacation. During peak hours, Manchamanteles gets busy but never packed; the massive space means reservations aren't required. The staff is kind and attentive with steady service that doesn't feel rushed. Friends, dates, and large parties filled the space on Saturday night during my visit, while Bahena roamed the dining room speaking to guests.
Summer's over and the city is back: fall is when London's restaurant scene really comes into its own. This September is promising a bumper load of new openings, from international exports to home-grown talent. While a lot of the new London openings are just that (new), in a time where the news headlines are full of downbeat tales of the decline of hospitality,
Like you, the staff keeps things casual, flying between the tightly packed two-tops in oversized button-ups and distressed jeans, and always attentive without hovering. Courses arrive in quick succession, without long, drawn-out pauses, and reservations come relatively easy (weekday tables are usually available day of and weekends just need a day or two of notice). Stlll, there are fine dining touches where it counts: big-deal wine bottles, cutlery swaps between courses, and daily printed menus.
At least a month or so ahead of my north London kitchen, I'm cooking with artichokes, aubergines, courgettes, tomatoes, broad beans and superb local new potatoes, all straight from the fields.
