Often overlooked in favour of the glossy green tea plantations, quaint south coast beach towns and the Kandy to Ella train ride that make up much of most travellers' itineraries, Colombo has been quietly transforming without fuss and fanfare for decades. Today, with plenty of intriguing cultural spaces to visit, as well as top-notch restaurants, like Gini, and cool bars to hunt out (don't miss Uncle's), it's deserving of at least a few days, if not longer.