I Took My Family to This Under-the-radar Island-and It Might Just Be Italy's Best-kept Secret

"As we boarded the ferry from Naples to Ischia, all I could think about was how similar it felt to standing in line at a theme park. Anticipation and anxiety hung in the air, along with the faint, sweet smell of sunscreen. Children fidgeted in the relentless August heat. But we took it all in stride because a big payoff-in this case, that roller coaster high of a fabulous Italian island vacation-was waiting on the other side."

"Fresh off a plane, my family and I looked suitably rumpled next to the unflappable, already sun-kissed Italians, clad in tight jeans, bold T-shirts, and swinging sundresses. The ferry arrived, and my husband, Rob, white-knuckled our suitcases onto the ship. The passengers' luggage roasted outdoors, while we cooled down inside. I felt my shoulders drop an inch or two, with a coffee finally in hand. Rob and our son, Bobby, began to relax, too. " Andiamo!" I said. And we were off."

"This was our second visit to Ischia, a destination that packs a lot of punch into 18 square miles. A volcanic speck in the cobalt Tyrrhenian Sea, the island is marked by healing waters and hot springs, vertiginous roads and lush landscapes. Famous landmarks include the Castello Aragonese-a Game of Thrones-esque fort and settlement, with roots dating to the 5th century BC-located off the village of Ischia Ponte."

As the family boards the ferry from Naples to Ischia, anticipation and August heat mingle with sunscreen scents and fidgeting children. After arriving, the family cools inside the ferry while luggage roasts outdoors, relaxes with coffee, and departs for the island. Ischia spans 18 square miles, a volcanic isle with healing waters, hot springs, steep roads, and lush scenery. Landmarks include the Castello Aragonese and the Poseidon Gardens thermal park with twenty natural pools. Dining can be leisurely, exemplified by Ristorante La Pace alla Scarrupata. The Regina Isabella resort in Lacco Ameno provides picturesque, relaxed accommodation.

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