St Tropez's Most Exclusive Hotel Just Opened For Summer

Cheval Blanc St Tropez begins its summer season in early May with guests enjoying rosé-fueled al fresco lunches. A waitress prepares tartare tableside using a large bowl of crushed ice, raw beef, and carefully selected seasonings and condiments, then mixes it to guests’ exact preferences. The service is supported by a large staff relative to the small number of guest rooms, with multiple employees ensuring quality and flawless execution. Service continues across meals, with the same staff member handling lunch, evening dining, and breakfast, then greeting guests at departure. Tableside preparation signals the start of the season as additional tartares are already being prepared.

"It's early May in the South of France and Cheval Blanc St Tropez has just begun its summer season - the first guests are enthusiastically ushering it in with rosé-fuelled al fresco lunches. Moments later, Camille returns, pushing an enormous trolley laden with a huge bowl of crushed ice, on which balances a plate of raw beef. Around it, a selection of seasoning and condiments - Camille gets to work, folding everything in, taking her time, and presenting spoonfuls for quality control."

"The time Camille can afford to spend by our table, creating a personalized portion of tartare, mixed up to our exact preferences (everything but the capers, please), is indicative of the level of service Cheval Blanc offers. There are only 32 guest rooms - plus a secretive little villa away from prying eyes - but around 200 members of staff. While one dedicates a good ten minutes to stirring raw beef tableside, there's a horde more in waiting to ensure not a single ball is dropped or standard slipped."

"It might be the slickest service I've ever seen. There's a subtle focus on continuation too: Camille served us our oceanfront lunch, looked after us for our three-hour-plus evening meal, was smiling again at breakfast, and managed to wave us off when we departed. Knowing what I do about French working laws, I am confident she squeezed a break in somewhere, but she somehow felt omnipresent, ready to spiel off the day's specials in an instant."

"As we left lunch at La Terrasse, it was clear the tableside preparation had done its work: the second and third tartares of the season were already in motion. Summer has arrived."

Read at Elite Traveler