Martinis, missed connections and les eggs: The Oakland bar closure I never wanted to cover

"As the Nosh columnist for openings and closings, it's my job to report on a lot of sad restaurant news. I inform folks when their beloved local bakery shuts down, when pizzerias close wordlessly, and when their go-to date night restaurants suddenly ghost them. And, while it's not always easy being the bearer of bad news, this particular story feels like a knife to my own ribs. This is a closure I hoped I'd never, ever have to write about. Friends & Family, the lauded, buzzy, deliciously well-received queer bar and restaurant on 25th Street in Oakland, is bidding farewell on December 30."

"I'll get the confounding details out of the way first. Despite its success, Friends & Family is closing because it's not making enough money. There are a lot of factors that play into that, such as unpredictable foot traffic and the rising costs of literally everything. It was a James Beard semi-finalist for outstanding bar in 2022 and named one of the 50 best bars in the country by The New York Times. Chef Gaby Maeda is clearly one of the best to ever do it; her acclaimed menu is crafted using only a panini press and two induction burners."

"Let me wax nostalgic, if I may. Friends & Family was my neighborhood bar, easily walkable from my old place on 29th Street and Broadway. And this really was the spot for lovers, truly. I've sat under the glow of its fuchsia lights with all of my best friends and laughed and cried over martinis and les eggs and rice cakes and hot and sour mushrooms more times than I can easily recall."

Friends & Family will close on December 30 after operating as a lauded queer bar and restaurant on 25th Street in Oakland. The closure results from insufficient revenue driven by unpredictable foot traffic and rising operating costs. The venue earned national recognition, including a 2022 James Beard semifinalist nod for outstanding bar and placement among The New York Times' 50 best bars. Chef Gaby Maeda led an acclaimed menu prepared using only a panini press and two induction burners. The bar provided an intimate, magenta-lit neighborhood gathering place known for inclusive warmth and memorable dishes.

Read at The Oaklandside