AnOther Loves: A Bag That Winks Back Knowingly

Guccicore is the name of Demna’s first Gucci cruise collection shown in New York. The collection fully embraces Gucci’s hallmark signs, both abstract and obvious, continuing from a debut show in February. The styling features cling-film tight, body-conscious silhouettes and latent sexuality that nod to Tom Ford-era Gucci while reflecting the present moment of selfies, hook-up apps, and heavy filler. The concept revisits a Gucci era known for slick, meaningful commodification of desire. Accessories also follow the theme, reworking the double-G canvas and green and red webbing straps into a snug half-moon handbag that hints at archival favorites from decades earlier. Gucci remains central throughout.

"“Guccicore” is the title Demna gave his first Gucci cruise collection, showing today in New York. And, as that name suggests, what this new creative tenure has thus far indicated is a whole-hearted embrace of the hallmark signs and signifiers of Gucci, both abstract and blatantly obvious. They were there in his debut show in February, in its cling-film tight body-consciousness and a throbbing, latent sexuality that winked back knowingly at the brand's Tom Ford glory days, but with a sense of the now - of selfies and hook-up apps and filler by the truckload."

"What's clever about it is that it's taking us back to a Gucci era, with all its slick yet meaningful commodification of desire, that we knew and loved, including Demna himself. Then again, for a new generation of Guccicore fanatics - like the rapper Fakemink, born a year after Ford left, who walked in Demna's first show - it's a brave new world, to be experienced for the first time. The big idea is across the board, and has filtered down to all-important accessories too, to reworkings of the universally known Gucci double-G canvas and green and red webbing straps."

"here fashioned into a snug half-moon handbag that slyly hints, again, at archival greatest hits from 30 or so years ago. Gucci, to the core."

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