Kenta Goto's ethereal Sakura Martini is unequivocally the most iconic cocktail on the menu at his eponymous bar on New York's Lower East Side. But while the cherry blossom-inspired drink represents the epitome of elegance, for umami hounds (like me) there's a sleeper hit lying in wait that's equally deserving of the spotlight: the Koji-San.
Made with shochu, mezcal, citrus and celery juice, the cocktail reads like a savory Margarita, though Goto's intention when he first put the drink on the menu, in 2019, was simply to create a sour with a noticeable undercurrent of savoriness.
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